Creature Comforts Pet Services, LLC

Compassionate care for your friend

Training

Proper Introductions

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You have a loving relationship with your sweet kitty, why not increase the love and offer home to another cat or kitten?  Then they could have a friend to play and cuddle with! Suddenly your sweet and relaxed kitty is angry, hissing, and chasing the new cat and possibly even not using the litter box!  What happened there?  Is it possible to add another cat to your household peacefully so everyone gets along?  And what about when two cats who previously did get along suddenly don’t?

With time and proper introductions, or reintroductions (for the former companions), cats can learn to peacefully get along.  Domestic cats are social and do benefit from companions, but it does require a delicate process to help them start off on the right paw.  Cats do not work things out on their own, as can be a common belief.

In the case of cats who used to like each other, but suddenly changed, it may take some detective work to discover the cause of the rift.  It could be a matter of something that scared one or both of them and that fear was displaced onto the other cat.  It could be an internal difficulty, emotional or physical, with one cat causing her to not feel good and just needing more space.  It could be a need to change the environment to accommodate the changing social needs of younger cats as they grow.  Maybe one cat had to leave the house for a while and now that she is back, they don’t seem to recognize each other.  There are lots of scenarios that might cause cats to go from companions to combatants.  In order to have a successful reintroduction it may take a veterinary visit and some work to discover, if possible, the cause of the difficulties.  Without removing the problem a reintroduction will not change anything.

Successful introductions require patience and plenty of time.  Rushing it could cause things to go backwards and become more difficult.  Here are some tips for introducing cats to each other in a safe and happy way.

What we are going to do here is desensitization, gradually exposing each cat to the other starting with scent.   And counterconditioning, which is pairing something positive such as play or treats with the other cat creating a positive association between them.

  1. Start before bringing the new cat home, or to separate companions who are having a difficult time.  Set up a safe room with all the things a cat needs to keep him comfortable; 2 litter boxes, food and water, a place to hide, a place to climb or play, and new toys.   The litter boxes, food, and water should be placed as far apart from each other as possible. 
  2. Cat’s inhabit a very olfactory world, so first introductions should be through scent.  Use a soft sock (a clean one of yours will have your scent also) on your hand and gently rub one cat, particularly the cheeks and head where his calming pheromones are, just like you are petting him.   Place that sock in the area of the other cat and place some treats near the sock. Do this process again in reverse with another sock for the other cat.  Repeat the process of adding fresh scent for a few days to make sure no one is reacting to the socks.
  3. Create a group scent through allogrooming and allorubbing, or hugging and kissing for cats.  Allogrooming and allorubbing are how cats share scent with each other to create a group scent.  Only here you are going to be using a soft brush or sock to share scent between cats.  Again add in the treats to keep the positive connection to the other cat’s scent. Be cautious and slow here, if anyone reacts to the other’s scent, back up a little and give them more time.
  4. Once they are used to each other’s scent, trade places with them for a little time, giving them each a chance to explore the other cat’s “territory”.
  5. Gradually introduce them through sight next.  Start by feeding them on opposite sides of the door.  Once they are relaxed, add in feeding them on opposite sides of a barrier they can see through, such as a baby gate.  You may have to start with them quite a ways away from the barrier at first and then gradually move them closer until they are eating in a relaxed way in close proximity.  Again, if there is any stress by either cat, there is no harm in backing up a few steps and giving them more time.  Eventually, you can remove the barrier and let the cats eat near each other with supervision.
  6. From here it is a good idea to always supervise interactions for a time, but allow the cats to be loose together.  While you are not able to supervise, I would suggest keeping them separate until you are confident they are able to manage together.

While this seems like a lengthy process, and it really is, it is worth the peace in the household you will have.  Some cats will never become best friends, but they can learn to live comfortably together without conflict.

Feline Enrichment and Routine

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Let’s face it, cats are control freaks.

They like to know what’s coming and when.  You can help your cat to live his best life by making things predictable and stable for him.  Have you noticed how your cat knows exactly what time dinner is supposed to be?  We all have our internal timers and rhythms. Cats do best when they know what to expect in their world.  Having a basic routine for things like playtime and mealtime and even cuddle time can make them feel comfortable and relaxed.  

There are some things that you can also add to your cat’s routine for extra enrichment.  Think about how a wild cat’s day might go.  She wakes up and goes on the hunt first thing in the morning (hmm – morning zoomies)  looking for her first meal of the day.  Once she catches that first mouse, eats well, grooms, and then what?  You guessed it! Time for that first nap.  And on her day goes. Predictable and ordered in it’s own way.  And in that order we can find a particular pattern that is excellent enrichment for a cat.  Hunt (play), catch it and eat, groom, nap.  By following a rythym that is natural for a cat you are adding to her wellbeing and health.  Slow feeder toys are a great way to add this enrichment to your cat’s feeding time. And play enhances your bond with them.  Regular play sessions twice a day for  at least 15 minutes before morning and evening meals can go a long way in your cat’s wellbeing and also add to your cat’s physical health because it includes regular exercise.

Sometimes these patterns can help alleviate other problems.   For example, if your cat regularly wakes you up at night, establish a pattern of rowdy play, food, cuddle time, and then time for everyone to go to bed.  Thought there is another piece to that puzzle. It involves not interaction with your cat during the night at all, not to push them off, not to roll away, just don’t move.  Which, I will warn you ahead of time,  means you may have to ride out a period of time of, sometimes increasing, attempts to get you to interact in the night.  This is  called an extinction burst, where an established behavior will get worse just before it goes away.  We all do this.  If that soda machine doesn’t work this time, we tap, bang, shake until we decide it just isn’t going to work.

Here are some kitty play tips to help you on your way:

Any cat, any age can benefit from play and can learn to play.

If using a wand toy, move the toy in an erratic manner across the floor and over cat trees. Lots of fast movements will catch their eye while periods of slow movement will give your cat a chance to stalk and get ready for the pounce.  Moving the toy around the room away from them can help.  In reality a prey item will rarely come towards a cat.

Experiment with different types of wand toys.  Some cats prefer feathers, some strips of  material that wiggle like snakes, some like little stuffed toys to grab onto.  Some prefer the wands where the toy is at the tip with a bell, some prefer a wand with a string then the toy.  There are lots of things out there to temp your kitty into play.

Lot’s of kitties love lazers.  If you have a cat that goes crazy for these, be sure to toss a treat or a favorite toy into the beam now and then so they have a chance to “catch it”, otherwise these can become frustrating to some.

Try the interactive cat  toys that move on their own.  Some cats love these, but be cautious with your introduction, some are afraid of the noises or movements.

Some cat’s will play fetch or hide and seek under a blanket.  One for mine likes when I pull her around the wood floor on a banket while she attacks the wrinkles.  You may even come with others all your own.

And lastly,  never play with your cat with your hands.  This might seem cute and harmless with a kitten, but can cause bigger scratches later on.  It also teaches your cat that attacking you is an acceptable way to play.

Cats can be worked with!

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Cats are often seen as spiteful, elusive, secretive, and totally untrainable.  Not one of these views is true.  In working with cats two important things to keep in mind are their biology and their domestication history with humans.  

First off, cats were never fully domesticated.  Most likely they were allowed to be around because they could rid human settlements of pests.  Maybe even encouraged to stick around with a little food.  Unlike dogs, however, they continued to keep themselves, to themselves.  This is why cats who are not actively socialized to humans during kittenhood, revert to feral very quickly.  We have to actually teach them that we are not there to hunt and eat them!

Biologically cats are both prey and predators.  While they are extremely effective hunters, they are also small and are in the middle of a food chain.  Their elusiveness and secretiveness comes from a need for safety.  Cats evade predators by slinking around in the shadows or climbing up high.  When a cat does not feel safe in her environment, she will hide under beds, away from the threat, or climb up furniture to escape.  These behaviors are instinctive, built into her biology.  It does not matter that there is actually no predator waiting to get her.  What matters is her perception of what is threatening.  

Kittens go through a socialization period at 8 weeks to 12 weeks, where they learn about what is safe in their world.  If exposed to what is normal for us during that time, such as friends coming over, or a visiting dog,  they will adapt to that as normal and safe for them.  This is a vital time to expose kittens to all sorts of new things.  Everything from leash walking outdoors, to other animals (including cats and people), to carriers and car rides, to vet visits, to sounds, etc.

All is not lost if you have missed this time with your cat!  You can go through a process called habituation where you, very slowly!!!, expose your cat to what they are afraid of.  For example, if your cat is afraid of thunder, you can play thunder (thank you Youtube!) starting very quietly at first, increasing the volume over time until that becomes a normal sound in his environment.  You can also add desensitization where you pair something your cat loves with the frightening thing.  Back to our thunder example,  if your cat loves brushing, brush him while playing the thunder quietly and teach him that thunder equals nice relaxing grooming and time with you.

And, lastly, cats do not do things to spite their owners.  There is always a reasonable cause (and solution!) behind difficult behaviors.  Punitive measures do not work with them.  This just causes them to become fearful of you and damages your relationship with them, on top of whatever behavioral issue the punishment was meant to stop.  Positive reinforcement is an excellent way to work with any cat.  Sometimes it can take a long time to undo learned fears, but it is so worth it for the sweet relationship it can bring.  There is no need to live with difficult or unwanted behaviors, nor is there a need to surrender your friend.  Almost all behaviors can be worked with.

Happy Training!

Vibrissae!  What are your cat’s whiskers telling you?

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Such a sensual sounding word, and it really is.  It is another word for cat whiskers.  The very thing they use to “sense” the environment around them.  Each whisker is equipped with tactile receptors that communicate both vibrations and touch.  They can detect a breath of air, they are so sensitive.  This can help them find prey by just movement. They are so important to a cat that they are the first hairs to develop before birth.  They are longer and thicker than other hairs and reach much deeper under the skin where they are in contact with nerves.

While cats do have eyebrow and chin whiskers, it is the movement of the muzzle whiskers that communicate a cat’s mood.   They can indicate anything from interest to fear to even pain. 

A relaxed friendly cat will have whiskers just slightly to the side.

An interested cat will have her whiskers perked forward and spread out.  This can also be an indication of a hunting cat.

An anxious or stressed cat will hold her whiskers slightly back, with increasing fear she will pull them back closer to her cheeks.

Whiskers pulled tightly back to the face, along with the ears, are a sign of defensive (fearful) aggression as par of the attempt to get smaller and protective of herself, and a cat will show offensive aggressive by pushing both the ears and whiskers forward much the same as hunting.

Cat’s tend to be very stoic when it comes to pain. Being the prey animals that they are, it is best to hide your weakness from predators.  But whiskers pushed forward can be an indicator of pain.

Cats can get “whisker fatigue” which means they get worn out by just feeling too much.  Kind of the same way I get at the end of a long day and it feels like everyone is talking much more loudly. This may be why your cat does not like to eat or drink out of a deep bowl.  It is always a good idea to provide something shallow, just to increase the wellbeing of your cat.  

Never cut your cat’s whiskers, this can impair their ability to navigate the world around them and can be painful.  This goes for pulling whiskers too.

Is July 4th your cat’s least favorite holiday?

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It is not just from sudden booms from fireworks, but holidays in general tend to take a toll on cats.  Cats derive a huge amount of security and comfort from things being predictable.  Any holiday that changes the normal events of the day is harder for our feline friends.

Here are some things you can do to help your cat to adjust to holidays.

Create a cozy hideaway – Offer a secret place to hide that is comfortable and cozy.   Maybe a familiar bed or blanket in a private cat only spot she can dash off to as things get going in your household. A clock wrapped in a blanket can offer a reassuring tick or vibration. Using feline pheromone spray on the blankets also can sometimes help.

Play some soft classical or species specific relaxing music – Research suggests that cats find music calming.  Don’t make it loud to drown out the fireworks though!

Close the curtains – The flashes of light and the extra activity outside can be disturbing to cats.

Take a deep breath – Don’t react to the extra load of having more going on or to the sounds of fireworks.  Your cat will take his cues from you about staying calm.

Consider veterinary help – If you know your cat reacts to fireworks or the extra activity from past experience, ask your veterinarian about temporary anxiety medications.

Offer something new – Try a brand new toy or scratch pad, distraction is…well distracting.

Keep the drinks away – Alcohol is sometimes a part of the 4th of July celebration, but keep those drinks out of paws reach. Alcohol can intoxicate your cat.  It can quickly become a life threatening emergency such as respiratory failure.

Watch the door – With more outdoor activity and guests coming and going, do your best not to let your cat out.  It may be especially difficult to coax her back inside at this time. Warn your guests to be on the lookout for your pet as they go in and out.

Make sure your cat is microchipped – In the unfortunate event your cat does get out and ends up at the local shelter they can scan and find your information immediately and get your friend back to you.  Remember to keep your chip information updated also, otherwise it is just a number on a microchip.  Without a microchip no one will have any easy way to identify your pet.  Collars and tags can also be helpful, but can be snagged on a tree or branch and be lost.  For cats, stretchy collars with a phone number printed on the collar are best.

What are your cats ears telling you?

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Imagine if humans had cat ears and we could easily see each other’s moods.  Imagine driving up to a 4 way stop and all you had to do was glance around to see what each of the other drivers were thinking.

Your cat gives you some pretty visible clues with her ears as to what she is thinking and feeling.

Cats can move their ears independently of each other. Rotate them 180 degrees, as well as move them up and down on their head.  They have 32 muscles that control their ears to our 6!

Ears pointed forward or slightly outward are neutral and relaxed as she listens to the world around her.

Ears pointed held to the side or pinned back indicate fear or aggression.

Ears perked forward show interest. They can show focus. This kitty is intensely interested in something in the grass, maybe a mouse.

One or both ears swiveling in one direction usually indicates when a cat is paying close attention to noises coming from that direction. Cats ears can help them to triangulate exactly where a sound is coming from.

Sometimes both ears rotated back is known as airplane ears. It can indicate arousal, meaning “I want to play” or “I’m scared”, or even “I’m annoyed, watch out”